Word Spoons Pt. #2

So, the first step is to find yourself a blank piece of paper.  I use a sketch book but it is really up to you what kind of paper you like. I always write the word I'm trying to draw because I can't always keep the word in my head once I get caught up in drawing mode. Granted I would have been fine with this word but it is part of my process so I don't skip it regardless of the word.

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My first draft is either just what I want or way off.  This one was the later.  The "F"" was cool but didn't fit with the rest of the letters and the "O's' were way too small. So this one didn't work.

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After realizing the first draft is way off, swear a little bit, then try again. This one (for me) is closer but still off. I figure I can fix the rest once I draw it on the wood.  I know what parts I like and how I want it to change my 3rd draft. I figured I might as well put the 3rd draft on the wood and  not waste more paper.

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The first step in preparing the wood is to split the log.  I just used an ax after sawing it to about the right length. 

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Then I split off a section that is about 3/4 of an inch thick.  As long as the grain is not twisted it should work.  This thickness gives just enough room to have a sturdy spoon with lots of depth for the letters. It also insures that you don't take off too much material when flattening the surface.

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Flattening the surface! This part is very important for when you have to draw the outline onto the wood.  It makes sure you don't have to make random concessions to the shape of letters after you have gotten really far on a piece. The technique I use to flatten the surface is to first flatten the outside edges so they lay flat on the chopping block.  Then holding the blank perpendicular to the block, I chop into the side I want flat with my hatch at a 45 to 25 degree angle (I think. I just do what feels right. I'm taking a guess here.). I move up and down the face until it is mostly flat working a little over half way up the surface at a time then flip over to the other edge and working off the excess on that side.

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This is what you are aiming for. Nice and Flat ready to be drawn on.

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3rd draft here. It looks pretty good everything always changes once you actually start carving but this give a solid idea of what to do. I have found ball point pens to work the best for writing on wood. It doesn't soak into the wood like markers and I find the tips don't get clogged easily. 

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Now is time to take your ax and carve off the excess wood. As your skill grows the amount of wood you should leave around the outline shrinks.  When I first started doing this I had to leave twice as much as you can see here.  It also depends on the shape of the letters you carve as to what a safe distance from the edge is.  If you get too close you could chop off half a letter. Sometimes you get lucky and can salvage the word some times it has to be changed into a different spoon altogether.

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Once you have gotten as close as you dare grab your knife and get right up to the outline.  Once you have carved to the outline you can carve it off like I did with the "F". This lets you know where the actual edge of your letters are and you can start to adjust them to be even and look good.

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Before you put too much more work in to the spoon you need to get the wood out of the inside of the letters. To bore out the holes in the letters I use a study knife and twist is back and forth.  Make sure you are paying attention to the grain of the wood and don't pull any up with your knife by accident. I will go from both sides so that I don't make a hole too big on one side.  It also makes it easier because you don't have to scrap off as much wood. Once you make it through then switch to a smaller sharper knife (mora 106 maybe).

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After you get the holes in finish shaping up the letters. Also make sure to work on the bowl too.  I usually do this right after i finish the holes. That is just because if I haven't already messed up the spoon carving out the hols will ber where it could happen.  But if that is done then it is pretty safe from that point on.

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After the carving is mostly done I let the spoon sit for a day or two this helps it dry out and makes it easier to get a smooth finish. Before I start the finishing carve I always resharpen my knife and make sure it is razor sharp. Sharpening your knife is the most important step in of carving. I will go over the spoon and smooth out the surface getting it to the final smoothness.  This is a slow and tedious step but I find it very important. It take as much or more time to smooth it out as it does to get to this step.

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This is a detail shot of how to get the connections points to look really good. This is on my leg. I DON'T carve on my leg. I only have two hands and one had to hold the camera. I will hold the spoon in the air and away from my body making sure I also keep my fingers out of the many paths the knife could go.

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Wait another day or a few hours. This is more so that you don't over work the peace once you think you are done. Also I sometimes think I'm done but miss something so giving myself a break every now and then to come back with fresh eyes is good. Get any last minute things you need to fix done, then oil it!  I use Tung oil. It is a hardening oil that makes a protective seal around the spoon. It takes about a week for the oil to kind-of dry and two weeks to really dry. This is mostly because of the way I have to apply the oil.  I tend to put more on then I need to so that it can sink into the gaps between the letters.  I try to make sure that all the wood is safe not just the easy to reach parts,

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That's it! To get better all you have to do is practice, cut your hands, and keep trying.  No tricks just hard work.  If that sounds like fun to you go and give it a try.

Till next time,
Peace out